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July 31 The Chronicles of Luke A Curtain - Chapter 3POLSKA PIEKNA
TUESDAY MAY 30
Left behind at a Train Station in Berlin, lamenting life, I was wondering if I would ever see my pack, my clothes, or my travel companion Meza again.
In my moment of despair a German couple came to my aid. Not speaking a word of english they were able to gesture that on the adjoining platform a train was scheduled to depart for Frankfurt-Oder at 12.50pm (A stop where some of the passengers on the Warsaw Express would elight) I was subsequently convinced that this was my best opportunity to make it to Poland.
As we ventured towards our destination I approached the Train Conducter within the carriage, and attempted to explain my plight. Again another German who couldn't speak English. I was beginning to wonder if the people of Deutschland were really making and effort to accomodate Australian backpackers who had no idea what the hell they are doing.
My pantomime style theatrics were good enough for her to understand what had happened and she generously contacted her colleagues on the Warsaw Express. Unfortunately they could not be convinced to wait for me at the next station so I would have to disembark at Frankfurt-Oder. I was however given free travel and I thought I could be stuck in worst places. After all Frankfurt is the financial heart of Germany and the centre of European travel, surely there was a lot to see in a city such as this.
When I arrived, and had subsequently seen the entire town by foot in 20 minutes, I began to wonder why there was so much hype about this place. Enquiring with some of the locals it was pointed out to me that the Frankfurt I was expecting was infact in West Germany with a population of over 1 million people and the Frankfurt I had seen in 20 minutes was on the German/Poland border and had a population of 1 thousand people. Common mistake I am sure!
I had to sleep on a bench at the station for about four hours till I could board the next train to Warsaw.
It was a long an tedious train ride to the Polish capital and irritation was begginning to set in with the knowledge that I was about 5-6 hours behind schedule and wouldn't be arriving at our accomodation till midnight. The other concern was that I didn't know the name of our hostel, I only knew its general location and I wasn't able to contact Meza as my phone had gone completely flat.
Again, European generosity came to the fore as a Polish chap in my carriage (who could also speak German and English) offered to drive me to my Accomodation.
I explained that I didn't know the name of the place, but gave him the general location. He said, 'Ooh, That's not a very good area. A little dangerous''.
Fantastic I thought, and when I couldn't identify where the place was he retracted his offer to drive and could only point me in the general direction, and therefore I had to search by foot.
Well I eventually found the Hostel (Nathan's Villa) after scouting the steets for what seemed an eternity and when I entered the accomodation introducing myself to the girl manning the reception she laughed to herself and said, 'I know who you are. Your friend is upstairs'. Obviously Meza had ridiculed me in my absence.
As I made my walk of shame to the level above I was greeted with a riotous welcoming. Meza had formed quite a fan base of well travelled people from around the globe who were just dying to take the piss out of me.
Turned out to be a great night!
Wednesday May 31
Meza and I spent the day travelling the streets of Warsaw with sisters from Minnesotta (Stacey & Bec). We had met them the previous night and we thought that they were worthy of spending 12 hours with.
Although Warsaw had been completely rebuilt since WW2 (Two-thirds of the population were killed and 83% of the city destroyed) it was still full of life and its town square had been restored to its former glory.
Generally speaking the streets, the landscape and the buildings of Warsaw were no rival to some of the great cities of Eastern Europe, but it is a compelling and grossly underrated city.
Furthermore, Warsaw (infact Poland in general) is home to the most beautiful women I have ever seen. Homogenization that set in after WW2 certainly had some major benefits.
From recollection, I fell in love 43 times on my first day in Poland. Stats that deserve appreciation.
Highlights of the day were certainly the women, the kebabs, the markets and the women.
The evening was spent relaxing, drinking cheap Polish liquor and hanging out with Bec, Stacey and two other girls we met (Kelly and Jeanne).
Meza and I really began to feel comfortable together as travel companions and the banter between us was riotously funny. We had these ladies in hysterics. It was clear to all that 'The Meza and Curto Show had just begun'.
Thursday June 1
Meza and I along with Jeanne and Kelly spent the first part of the day checking out more of the Polish Capital. 'The Pope' had visited Warsaw only a week or so before so there was religious propaganda everywhere. We had also taken a look at the Jewish cemetary and had got lost along the way. Fell in love another 28 times.
The two girls had decided to join us on our next adventure to Krakow (Approximately three hours south by train). We left in the late afternoon after an exhausting Day of walking.
The work load had taken its toll on the other three guys and they slept the entire trip. To stay entertained I introduced myself to a Polish chap sitting opposite me on the train. I explained that the people of Warsaw were not always that helpful because I had no grasp of their language. He then offered to give me a crash course in Polski.
He taught me all there is to know.
Phrases such as;
The Hostel we were staying at in Krakow was simply awesome. It was in an Incredibly location right in the town square, it had a sensational atmosphere, amazing staff and great food on offer. When we checked in I charmed the female staff with my attemps to speak their native tongue. They were suitably amused, along with their Australian colleague who rewarded my efforts by giving me free accommodation for the duration of my stay. After freshening up Meza decided to continue his search for Europe's greatest Kebab, so Jeanne, Kelly and I took a night tour of the Krakowian streets and checked out some of their famous Jazz Bars.
Friday June 2 This was the most intense day of my trip to date.
The four of us spent the day at Auschwitz-Birkenau. Scene of the most extensive experiment in genocide in World History. The death factories at A-B exterminated approximately 1.5 million people (Mostly Jews).
Viewing The prison blocks of Auschwitz was not as harrowing as I expected. In fact it had quite a peacful feeling and the buildings themselves where in pristine condition. My emotions changed quickly however when our guide took us through the gas chambers and other parts of the museum, where women's hair (Used for the German textile industry) and thousands of childrens shoes were on display.
The enormity of this exercise became even more disturbing at Birkenau. Although much of this camp was destroyed by the Nazis, the barbed wire stretching as far as the eye can see and the remains of the 300 prison barracks really gives you an idea of the scale of this monstrous crime.
That evening, in an attempt to lift our spirits the four of us checked out the night life of Krakow.
Firstly going to a few Jazz Bars we ended up drinking the night away at a club named 'Propaganda'.
Aptly named perhaps as the tourist brochures mention it as a hip Polish Club, while the locals regard it as nothing more than a meat market. Meat market works for me!
While Meza and the others slipped into drunkiness, I tried my luck with some of the local ladies.
There was one girl in particular I took a liking to, Masia. Despite her English being no better than my Polish we hit it off famously (With the assistance of her friend who acted as our translater).
After dancing with Masia for a number of hours and no longer having her friend around to act as an intermediary our short lived relationship was beginning to wane. We had pretty much exhausted all forms of communication, and although my Polish line of; Mom Na Imil Luke. Yestesh Piekna (Translation: My name is Luke. You are beautiful) proved successful early on, it had most definately lost its appeal by the 100th edition.
We decided to go our separate ways and I staggered back to the hostel in the early hours of the morning.
Saturday June 3
Sporting a huge hangover, the day is spent touring Krakow.
The city of Krakow was founded by Prince Krak, who settled the location by the River after defeating the resident Dragon. Today was dragon day, which is an annual celebration marking the occasion. The day inlcudes live music, entertainment and a parade meandering through the city streets. After getting our dose of the local culture. Meza the two girls and I make our way up Wawel Hill. The hill is topped with castle and cathedral. It is a beautiful area, with fantastic views of the city and surrounds.
After spending hours walking the extensive grounds of Wawel Hill and reflecting on our last few days in the area, we unanimously decide that Krakow is the best place we have been to.
After a late lunch, I catch up with Joanna (The Manager of our hostel) and we spend the remainder of the day together. It is nice to spend some time with a local and she gives me a great appreciation of what life must have been like living in a communist country.
She is very intelligent and ridiculously funny and we get along famously. Meza and I had previously bought tickets for a night train to Prague leaving at 10.30pm and I have no doubts that we are charged extra for our tickets. (Australian Tax, tourist tax, can't speak Polish tax etc).
Joanna tells me of stories about the night train to Prague and how people have been gassed and robbed on more than one occasion. I am sure she is just taking the piss to have a joke, but as she bids me farewell she recommends that either Meza or I should be awake at any given time.
It is also time to bid farewell to Jeanne and Kelly. I had an awesome time travelling with them and I am sure our paths will cross soon.
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